Day 52: Arizona to California

I took the train from Arizona to Los Angeles to trade desert for a cool Pacific breeze.

The coast should be done from north to south in order not to fight the prevailing wind every moment and keep sanity. The thing is, I really wanted to ride through Big Sur. It's only a week into San Francisco from LA, though, and oh-so-worth every second.

Days 50, 51, 52: Grand Canyon, AZ

GRAND CANYON TIME.

Yes, it's stunning. Got cold. Got snowed on. Done a little walk down into the canyon.

Spoiling a decent view

Day 49: Flagstaff, AZ to Grand Canyon, AZ

To the Grand Canyon today. The bloody Grand Canyon!

It dawned on me along the route today that I'm about to see one of the most spectacular features of the natural world, but what makes it feel more special is I didn't even plan on coming here few weeks back.

Hammock room at Joe's

Weather forecasts had told us to expect a cold snap so Ken paid a visit to REI and bought a new jacket. The day started at a familiar 'we're pushing it' late morning hour and we gained yet more elevation outside of Flagstaff taking us along the base of Humphreys Peak.

Not been since the freak night in Florida have I been uncomfortable in a short sleeve jersey, but today I donned the long sleeve wool and the down jacket never came off. Tonight will be comfortably below zero.

Unexpected introduction for the SockGlove™

Making the cold worse was the strong headwind all bloody day. I was seriously struggling for motivation as we were running out of light in the evening; the flat featureless highway hints no clue to what astonishing a feature lies just ahead. Luckily we reached the park entrance before it was pitch black and were told the campsite was just ahead of us. We'll have to wait until morning to see the main attraction.

This will most likely the last day Ken and I cycle together; I'll head back to Flagstaff in a couple of days and Ken will go on his epic tour of Utah.

Day 47 & 48: Payson, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ

Day 47: Payson, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ

Due to taking the unintended rest day yesterday, we decided on making the journey north to Flagstaff in one day.

It was another big day as we had the best part of 100 miles to cover across land that ain't flat. Awake at 5 (a time zone mistake, obviously) we were rolling by half 7 after another top breakfast burrito.

We said our goodbyes to Devin and Laurel, all-round lovely and generous hosts who made us feel like part of the family for the two nights we stayed.

The immediate section along the 87 out of Payson was probably the most unsafe I've felt on the whole trip. Such animosity. The road itself is gorgeous, however the lack of shoulder coupled with twists and incline makes for uncomfortable riding. Cars here are obviously not used to dealing with cyclists. One: they don't view waiting behind you for a suitable time to pass as an option whatsoever, instead just swerving wildly out into the oncoming lane around blind corners. Two: they view the cyclist as the problem and all frustration is directed towards the rider. Cycling is such a terrible use of a public road, isn't it?

First task was to climb over the Mogollon Rim which took us through the pine forests. Back up to 2300 metres elevation. It's amazing how quickly the scenery has changed from desert and cacti galore a day ago into dense pine forest today, and it'll be the Grand Canyon tomorrow. What a fascinating land.

We arrived at Joseph's house as the sun was setting. The greenery of today has been a pleasant shift in scenery. Flagstaff seems pretty with the bulk of Mt. Humphreys looming over town to provide an impressive backdrop.

Day 48: Flagstaff, AZ

A lazy day full of coffee and overpriced Whole Foods Market fare. Really, it's disgusting the prices of shopping at organic markets and similar places here. It commands the obvious slight premium back in the UK, but eating healthily here must be crippling! Maybe it's because I struggle to find the restraint at all the fancy pants items in the supermarket aisles.

Joe and his friends have a weekly BLT night; Joe supplies the bacon, everybody else brings another constituent part. So good.

I'm having a real dilemma of where to take this trip after the Grand Canyon. Ken has a much longer time in the country than I do, planning on a loop through Utah and across Nevada. I've decided to skip Nevada as I don't see much value in cycling boring roads for week when my time is limited. Where to go?

I think I'll come back to Flagstaff after the Canyon, get the train to Los Angeles and cycle the coast up to San Francisco and Northern California.